I got the idea for this from a picture I saw online. I then remembered that Susan Lenart Kazmer did something similar. I went to her site and took a look at what she did. The thing that got me was how the wire frames and beads stayed on the tubing without coming off the ends. Thought I would give it a try and figure it out as I went along.
•1/16” copper tubing –can be found in hardware stores
•18 and or 20 gauge wire
•pliers – round nose, square, and cutting
•embellishments and various beads
•small found objects
•hammer and bench block
Overall length of copper tubing and wire was 1 ½”.
Cut copper tubing to desired length with cutting pliers. You will need about 8-10 pieces depending on the size of your wrist.
To make the clasp: Cut about a 2-3” piece of wire and use a pair of pliers to bend it in half. Flatten about an 1-1 ½’ of the folded middle piece with hammer on the bench block. About ½’ from the folded end, use your round nose pliers and fold over the end. Use pliers and give the end a little lip. Cut off the two ends with about a ½” tail. Use your round nose pliers and make loops with the two ends so you can slide the copper tubing through it.
The end of your bracelet should have the clasp on there. Slide a heishi bead onto the copper tubing. I was lucky and it fit exactly. All I had to do was flatten the one end of the tubing with a pair of pliers to have the bead stay on. You can solder the end, turn over the end a little or use super glue to keep the end on (alternatives).
Cut the wire in pairs and use your round nose pliers to put loops at both ends to thread onto the copper tubing.
Thread onto the piece of copper tubing: heishi bead, wire, another bead, wire, something in the middle, if desired), wire, bead. Keep doing that with the tubing, wire, and beads until you get the desired length of your bracelet. The last piece of copper tubing opposite side of your clasp will be where you attach the clasp to your bracelet. So keep the other end of your bracelet (opposite the clasp) relatively clear of embellishments.
If needed, use sandpaper to clean up the sharp edges of the copper tubing.
Once you have your frame done, you can use eyelets and wire to attach your found objects to your bracelet.
Attach clasp to other end of bracelet on your wrist and enjoy!
Overall size of the booklace is 1 ½ by 1 ¼. Overall size is up to you and how large you like your pendants.
Patina your copper and let dry completely. Seal the color, if desired. I usually do not seal until I am done with the piece. I use a spray sealer. I sometimes don’t seal it because I like how the copper changes color over time.
Cut both pieces to desired size. Round corners with sharp scissors. I used 30 gauge for the cover and 26 gauge for the back cover. The thinner gauge was used on top so I could cut through it more easily. I used the heavier gauge on the back so that it would not warp from use. You can cut the metal with metal snips or use a very sharp pair of scissors meant for cutting meal. Use your sandpaper or Dremel tool to smooth the edges so it is not sharp to the touch.
Use a small hole punch or Crop-a-dile to punch a hole in the center of your top cover. Use a pair of sharp scissors and cut outwards about 6 ¼” lines. Use your round nose pliers and fold the edges out and under making a window in the center of your top cover. Make the window large enough so that your copper face charm can fit inside and spin around.
Cut about a 3” or longer piece of copper wire to attach the copper face charm to the front cover. You will need your square nose pliers or something similar for this. Make sure you don’t have serrated pliers or teeth on your pliers for this (it will mark up your wire). Position the copper face charm in the center of the window. Wrap the wire around the top of the cover. Use your pliers to flatten the wire around the cover. Cut off excess wire. Do the same thing with the bottom.
To put the size zero screws into the cover, you will need to punch holes into the cover where you want the screws. You will use the 1/16” hole punch for this. Once you get the screws and corresponding nuts off, you can use a pair of cutting pliers and cut the excess part of the screw off. Use sanding paper or Dremel to smooth the cut area. Retighten the screws. I then use a drop of superglue on the back to make sure the nut does not come off of the screw. Let dry completely.
Cut pieces of mica (several layers thick for sturdiness) a little smaller than the size of your covers. Use some liquid glue to adhere collage image or whatever else you want to the mica. Let dry. How many pages of mica you want in your booklace is up to you. Consider how thick your final booklace will be.
Inside back cover – I took a small piece of mica scrap and cut to size desired. I used Sobo glue to adhere to the inside of the metal cover. I then took a small collage image and put that on top. I cut several pieces of mica out the same size but took out the middle part so the collage image would show through. I also did that with a piece of text so that there would show through the mica. I used the glue and layered on several layers of mica and the text near the top until I got a little mica frame around the collage image. I purposely distressed the mica frame a little to give it an older look. Let dry completely.
Use the Crop-a-dile or hole punch and punch holes into the cover and mica – making sure all the holes match up. Use an eyelet setter or Crop-a-dile to set the eyelets for the rebar loops.
To make the rebar wire loops, you will need to practice this until they match up. I was lucky and got it on the first try. Cut about a 4” piece of rebar wire off from the spool. Use a wooden dowel or something similar to create the loop at one end. Leave about a 1-1 ½” tail . Use your pliers and squeeze the two ends together so that you get a wire loop from the dowel. Take the wire loop off the dowel. Use a pair of pliers and hold the loop together where the two ends meet. Use another pair of pliers and twist the tail around the other middle of of the wire close to where your loop meets. Only make two or three turns and then cut off the excess. Now with the other end of the wire, make a loop with the other end of the wire. Do NOT close this wire loop since you will be threading your booklace through this end.
Do the step 10 with another piece of rebar wire.
If your two pieces of wire pretty much match up in terms of length, you can take the open end of the wire and put the booklace through it. Make sure the booklace can open and close before your close the end up on your rebar wire. Close the ends by twisting the ends of the tail around the middle.
Thread a chain through the two top loops of your booklace and you are done!
I first saw a booklace a couple of years ago when I was at Valley Ridge Art Studio in Wisconsin to take a Michael deMeng workshop. Previously, there was a Nina Bagley workshop at that venue. I was intrigued at that time but not enough to try it for myself. Recently, I saw someone have it one on at the Quilt Show in Chicago. I had all the materials to do it, so I decided to give it a try. I am at that point in my art and assemblages where I can pretty much look at something and then do it myself. It is not a copy of what I see, but my interpretation of what I see.
•26 or 30 gauge copper sheet
•patina/antiquing solution – my source is volcanoarts.biz
•(liver of sulfur or other oxidizing solution will work)
•rebar tie wire – can be found in hardware store
•round nose pliers
•square nose pliers
•20 gauge copper wire
•copper face charm from artchixstudio.com
•tiny screws and nuts from volcanoarts.biz
•sandpaper or sanding accessory with Dremel tool
•collage images •mica sheets
•Crop-a-dile or hole punch •1/16” hole punch
•Super glue – gel form •liquid glue such as Sobo
•wooden dowel or something circular •eyelets
•silver/copper tone chain by orientaltrading.com. Overall length about 18”. •spray sealer - optional
The trio necklace done the same way except I used eyelets instead of size 0 screws. I used a punch to get the circle in the middle of the copper sheet.